Conrad Anker Explains the Art of Free Solo Mixed Climbing

New Movie Captures Climber Matt Cornell Free Soloing a Legendary Montana Route

“The harder you dirtbag, combined with the harder your routes, the greater cred you have within your community,” Conrad Anker says in Come and Get It. The video profiles his buddy Matt Cornell and his free solo of a hard-mixed rock and ice route in Hyalite Canyon in southwestern Montana.

Cornell is a climber so devoted to the commerce that he lives on the low-cost by sleeping in a rented closet below a stairwell in Bozeman. Working much less and spending much less frees up his time to comply with his ardour – to climb the most demanding routes in the space.

Hyalite, full of 225 ice and mixed routes, is a vacation spot for climbers throughout the world and is dwelling to the annual Bozeman Ice Festival, now in its 23rd yr. (The occasion came about simply final week from December 11-15.) Hyalite can also be Anker’s dwelling crag, the place as head of The North Face climbing crew for 26 years, he fired many of the space’s hardest climbs.

Come and Get It’s one of these strains. To organize for his ropeless ascent, Cornell rehearsed the climb with Anker till he had the route dialed and knew each nook and cranny on it. Some days Cornell, car-less, would enterprise into the park alone through biking and hitchhiking to circuit different climbs in the space. All that point on the vertical allowed him to change into so accustomed to the ephemeral ice flows and steep rock that he felt snug doing the route rated M7 and established by Anker’s late climbing mentor Alex Lowe, with out ropes or security tools.

“Part of the legacy climbers leave behind are the routes they opened up,” Anker says of Lowe and his legendary first ascents round the globe. As a consequence of its committing and difficult terrain, the climb additionally “put three people in the hospital,” Anker says. “Matt understood the route.”

As Cornell climbs his crampons squeak on small factors, and his ice instruments grind into the fragile stone. Watch his full solo of Come and Get It in the breathtaking video above that frames the enterprise’s full dangers and supreme rewards.


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