The North Shore of Oahu rang within the New Yr with the biggest swell of the 2019/2020 winter season (to date). With the Triple Crown and Pipe Masters within the rearview, and the vacation season in full swing, the lineup at Pipeline on December 31 was eerily empty, as a brand new, highly effective west swell rapidly grew in dimension and power by the hour.
Within the afternoon, big-wave charger Kohl Christensen picked off a beautiful-looking second reef roll-in (on the 10:15 mark within the video above). However, because the wave unloaded on the primary reef and Christensen locked in, the wave stretched out too far down the road, and Christensen slipped as he tried to pump his 8-foot board contained in the barrel, falling ahead.
Whereas the wipeout didn’t appear to be something particular, every little thing went flawed underwater. It’s unclear whether or not it was the reef or Christensen’s personal board, however one thing slammed into his head, knocking Christensen unconscious and sending him straight to the hospital for emergency surgical procedure. Fortuitously, the North Shore Lifeguards have been capable of act swiftly and save his life.
In line with Christensen’s pal Casey Goepel, he’s in secure situation and anticipated to get better totally. Goepel wrote this on Instagram yesterday:
“Please ship your ideas and prayers to Kohl Christensen and his household.
“Yesterday, on the finish of a 2nd reef bomb, Kohl worn out and hit his head on the reef. He reduce his head open and fractured his cranium. Due to the unbelievable group @northshorelifeguardassociation and first responders, Kohl was swiftly rescued and given one of the best care doable.
“After profitable mind surgical procedure, he’s exceeding all expectations and we’re hoping for a speedy restoration. We’re eternally grateful for his surgical group at Queens.
“At this time, Kohl needs to rest and heal. Please send him and his family positive thoughts and good energy as he embarks in a strong recovery.”
Christensen is definitely a co-founder of the Big Wave Risk Assessment Group, which trains surfers in security protocols for precise conditions like this, and it’s not a stretch to say the methods the BWRAG educate are partly accountable for saving Christensen’s life, together with the lives of surfers like Hayden Rogers, Dusty Payne, Kalani Chapman and Evan Geiselman, who’ve all suffered comparable head injures at Pipeline in recent times.
Yet one more reminder that Pipeline is the world’s most harmful wave.
This text initially appeared in Surfer.com and was republished with permission.
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